Shoes and traction devices for running on snow and ice

This guide covers everything related to your feet in winter: running shoes designed for the cold season, removable cleats that you can slip over any shoe, when to use what depending on the surface, how to adjust everything to stay warm and dry, maintenance tips for dealing with salt, a realistic budget, and mistakes to avoid. Practical advice, tailored to our local streets and trails.

The real challenge: traction on ice and snow

Walking on ice is tricky enough. Running is a whole different story: with every step, your foot exerts a backward force, and if the sole doesn’t grip, you’ll start sliding. The problem in Québec is the variety of surfaces you encounter on a single run. A stretch of loose, grippy snow, then a street corner turned into a skating rink by the freeze-thaw cycle, followed by half-melted slush. No shoe, no matter how good it is, is perfect everywhere.

So we need to distinguish between two main complementary solutions: the winter shoe itself, which manages heat, moisture, and some traction, and removable cleats, which solve the problem of black ice. Many experienced runners use both, depending on the day. Even before thinking about winter, it’s worth understanding how to choose your running shoes in general, since the same principles of support and sizing apply, with seasonal adjustments.

Running shoes designed for winter

A true winter running shoe differs from a three-season shoe in several ways. It isn’t essential for everyone, but if you run outdoors three or four times a week all winter long, it’s a game-changer.

A warmer, more sealed upper

Summer shoes are full of open mesh to let air through. In winter, those holes let in snow, slush, and cold. Winter models, on the other hand, feature a denser upper—often lined—and sometimes a higher collar around the ankle to keep snow out. Some include a small built-in gaiter or a protected lacing system.

Waterproofing vs. breathability

This is the big winter debate. A waterproof membrane like Gore-Tex keeps your feet dry when you’re walking through slush or wet snow around freezing. The downside is that it’s less breathable: in very cold, dry conditions, at -20, your feet still sweat, and the moisture gets trapped inside. The result is sweaty feet that eventually get cold.

• Waterproof membrane: ideal for days with slush, melting snow, and mild weather around 0 degrees, which are common in November, March, and April.
• Upper that’s not waterproof but warm: often more comfortable in dry, biting cold, when the snow is powdery and doesn’t get your feet wet.

If you could only have one pair, the waterproof version is the most versatile choice in Québec, because our winters constantly alternate between dry cold and damp thaws.

The sole and built-in studs

The best winter boots have a rubber sole that stays flexible in cold weather, unlike summer rubber, which hardens and loses its grip as soon as it freezes. Some models go a step further with built-in carbide studs—tiny metal spikes embedded directly into the sole. They grip the ice without requiring any installation, and they’re discreet enough to handle dry asphalt. This is an excellent option for those who run mainly in the city on mixed surfaces. Their limitation: these fixed spikes are no substitute for real, aggressive crampons on thick ice.

Removable crampons: the ice solution

When ice reigns supreme, nothing beats a good set of crampons that you slip over your shoes like a rubber cover. It’s often the most cost-effective purchase of the winter, because it turns any pair of shoes into an anti-ice weapon. There are three main types.

Microspikes

Microspikes are the gold standard for running. They consist of an elastic rubber strap that fits snugly over the shoe, connected to chains and a series of small steel spikes ranging from 8 to 12 millimetres in length under the sole. They grip black ice impressively well and remain stable on packed snow. They’re the best choice for icy trails, unplowed multi-use trails, and icy country roads.

Chains and spring-loaded systems

Lighter and less aggressive, these models use small metal chains or coils instead of spikes. They grip packed snow and thin ice well, and they’re more forgiving if you encounter patches of bare asphalt. However, on thick, solid ice, they don’t grip as well as microspikes. They’re a good compromise for urban running where the sidewalk alternates between ice and bare concrete.

Spikes to screw into an old pair

The resourceful and economical option for Québec runners. Take an old pair of running shoes you no longer use, and screw small hex-head screws—often 3/8-inch sheet metal screws—directly into the rubber lugs on the sole.

• Place about ten screws under the forefoot and heel, in the thickest rubber blocks—never where the screw would pierce through to the inside.
• Choose rubber blocks that are thick enough so the screw holds without piercing the midsole.
• This solution provides amazing traction for just a few dollars, but the screws wear down and can come loose. Check them regularly.

It’s perfect for testing out winter conditions without a big investment, or as a dedicated pair to keep by the door for icy mornings.

When to use what: read the surface

The secret is to adapt your gear to the conditions of the day rather than relying on a single one-size-fits-all solution. Look outside, think about your route, and choose accordingly.

• City sidewalks, cleared of snow but dotted with patches of ice: lightweight chains or shoes with built-in carbide spikes, which can handle the dry concrete between the ice patches.
• Icy suburban streets or black ice: microspikes, without a doubt, for maximum grip.
• Snow-covered trail or track, packed snow: microspikes or screw-in spikes, which grip well without getting in the way on packed snow.
• Fresh, deep powder snow: sometimes no crampons are necessary; the loose snow already provides traction. A warm, high-top boot is sufficient.
• Slush and mild weather: waterproof boots, and crampons only if there are patches of ice beneath the slush.

A practical tip: Microspikes can be removed in ten seconds. If your route starts on dry asphalt before reaching an icy trail, slip them into a pocket and put them on once you get there. This will protect both the spikes and your ankles. For the rest of your winter strategy, check out our comprehensive guide to running in winter.

Fit: thicker socks and half a size larger

Winter running shoes don’t fit the same way as summer running shoes. You’ll almost always be wearing thicker socks—preferably merino wool—which take up space in the shoe. If you squeeze your foot into your usual size over a thick sock, you’ll cut off circulation—and a compressed foot is a foot that gets cold.

• Often, go up half a size for your winter pair to accommodate thick socks without causing compression.
• Leave about an inch—the width of an inch—of space between your big toe and the tip of the shoe.
• Don’t tie your laces too tight: blood circulation is your best source of warmth. A foot that moves a little and stays warm is better than a foot that’s constricted and frozen.
• A single pair of warm, technical socks is better than two pairs stacked together that constrict the foot.

Keep your feet dry and warm

A wet foot is a cold foot—period. Moisture, whether from slush or your own sweat, draws heat away from the body much faster than air. The battle is won on two fronts.

First, prevent water from getting in, using a waterproof upper or a short gaiter in slushy conditions. Second, wick away sweat with merino wool or synthetic socks that manage moisture—never cotton, which traps it against the skin. In extreme cold, some runners add a thin windproof layer, but be careful not to turn your shoe into a sauna. If your toes get so numb that you can’t feel them anymore, don’t try to be a hero: that’s your cue to cut the run short and head back inside to warm up gradually.

Care: salt, the silent enemy

Road salt is harsh on shoes. It leaves white marks, dries out and weakens the upper, and corrodes the metal on the cleats. A little maintenance goes a long way toward doubling the lifespan of your gear.

• When you get back, rinse or wipe off any salt residue with a damp cloth, especially on leather or synthetic uppers.
• Remove the insoles and let them air dry; never place them directly on a baseboard heater or radiator, as this can cause the adhesive to crack and the shoe to warp.
• Stuff the inside with newspaper to absorb moisture and speed up drying.
• Rinse and dry your microspikes after runs on salty surfaces to prevent rust, then store them in a pouch.
• Ideally, have two pairs to rotate, so one pair can dry completely while you’re running in the other.

Budget: how much to expect

You can approach winter running with varying levels of investment, depending on your activity.

• Low budget: an old pair of shoes plus a handful of sheet metal screws—for about ten dollars—and some good wool socks. That’s enough to give winter running a try.
• Medium budget: a good pair of microspikes, often between $60 and $100, to slip over your regular shoes. This is probably the best value for money all winter long.
• Comfort budget: A true waterproof winter running shoe, usually between $160 and $250, either on its own or paired with crampons for the worst days.

Specialty stores in Québec are the perfect place to try on several models, compare how they fit with your winter socks, and get advice from people who also run in -20°C weather.

What to avoid

• Sticking with your thin summer shoes: The rubber hardens in the cold and becomes slippery, plus it lets snow in.
• Running with microspikes on long stretches of dry asphalt: you’ll wear out the spikes prematurely and put unnecessary strain on your ankles.
• Wearing two thick pairs of socks in shoes that are too tight: the compression cuts off circulation and cools your feet.
• Let your shoes dry while resting them on a radiator: direct heat damages the adhesive and warps the sole.
• Neglecting to rinse off salt: a few weeks without rinsing, and a nice upper becomes rough and cracked.
• Reusing the same worn-out screws season after season: Dull spikes no longer grip and give you a false sense of security on the ice.

Conclusion

Running in the winter in Québec is neither impossible nor dangerous when your feet are properly shod. The winning trio comes down to a few simple things: a shoe suited for cold and wet conditions, a good pair of removable crampons for black ice, and a fit that allows blood to circulate. From there, every run becomes an invitation to get outside rather than an excuse to stay indoors. To find the right gear and get advice from experts who face the same winter as you, check out the stores in Québec, then set a goal by consulting the race calendar to turn your icy runs into practical training.